This first step has the unfortunate nickname “crotch seam sandwich”. The order here is very important! Pin the crotch seam with these layers:

1. Swim Bottoms back (right side up)
2. Swim Bottoms front (wrong side up)
3. Swim Bottoms lining front (right side up)
4. Swim bottoms lining back (wrong side up)

Sew a standard zig zag stitch at 1/2″ seam allowance on the crotch seam sandwich seam. Trim seam allowance down to 1/4″.

Moving past the crotch we will knock out some side seam sandwiches. The order here is very important! Pin the following stack along the side seam:

1. Swim Bottoms lining side panel (right side up)
2. Swim Bottoms lining front (wrong side up)
3. Swim Bottoms front (right side up)
4. Swim bottoms side panel (wrong side up)

Sew a standard zig zag stitch at 1/2″ seam allowance on the side seam.

Repeat for the opposite side seam, following the same order as before. Trim side seam allowances down to 1/4″.

Moving along in food comparisons we are now encountering some back side seam burritos. Do you believe in magic? Good, lets proceed. Things get weird here and might be confusing, but you can do it. If between the photos and illustrations you are still unsure please click through the Midline Swimsuit Instagram highlight reel until you find the video demonstrating this step.

Be careful to note the order. For the perfect back side seam burritos stack:

1. Swim Bottoms lining side panel (right side up)
2. Swim Bottoms lining back (wrong side up)
3. Swim Bottoms back (right side up)
4. Swim Bottoms side panel (wrong side up) – this piece should be wrapped around the rest of the pieces to complete the burrito.

I’m sure that was crystal clear, but just for fun let’s break down that side seam burrito again. I like to start by butterflying the side seam, keeping the lining side panel right side up and the main fabric side panel flipped right side up on the opposite side of the seam.

Next I lay the rest of pieces flat.

Then I flip up both layers of the swim bottoms back and line them up with the side panel. I like to stop and pin the three layers together at the side seam at this point.

Now I take the opposite side and start rolling until I see the edge of the main side panel showing up…

…And then keep rolling and pin in place to the first three layers.

And pause to appreciate that tidy burrito. Stitch the side seam with a standard zig zag at 1/2″ seam allowance.

Flip everything right side out and you now have one fully enclosed side panel and crotch seam. You are a wizard!

Repeat the same layering order/steps for the last back side seam.

Flip inside out. Admire.

At this point you should stop and try on the swim bottom. I know, I know. It’s so annoying. Do it! Everyone’s awesome body is different. Thighs come in all different shapes and that’s cool. But that also means you may want to make some small adjustments to your suit. The crotch width should be 1/2″ wider on either side than where you want the final edge to be (to account for the elastic edging). The crotch is slightly wider than normal due to the boyshort style, however, it should not be full on shorts or you may find yourself with some unwanted crotch lines (ew, tragic).

The most common adjustment was scooping out a little of the swim front fabric between the crotch and side panel. Trimming beyond that will take away bum coverage, so be aware of that. If you feel some adjustments are needed I have recommended trimming lines for the scoop on page 23 of the instructions.

Once happy with the fit trim side seam allowances to 1/4″.

I can see the finish line! You are almost there.

Smooth and pin the lining to main fabric for the waistband and legs. Use an elongated zig zag on the edge or serger to baste the layers together.

Before you cut the elastic to length mark the length (elastic list on page 6) and try it on your thigh and waistband. Are either of the areas too tight or loose? Make needed adjustments (accounting for the 1/2″ overlap) and cut to size.

Overlap the elastic 1/2″ and stitch to create loops for the legs and waistband.

Mark 12, 1/4, and 1/8 points around the waistband + waistband elastic only.

If you are unsure how to do this I have a Midline Swimsuit Instagram highlight reel that includes a classy l video demonstration on dividing an area to evenly space elastic and fabric.

Match up the pins in both pieces and pin in place. I prefer to add additional pins in between to make it easier to sew. Use an elongated zig zag stitch at 1/4″ seam allowance. It helps to hold the fabric behind the machine while you pull from the front, stretching the elastic to be flat with the swim bottom fabric as you sew.

If you have never sewn swimwear I find it helpful to watch a few YouTube videos to visualize how to stretch while you sew. This video is a few years old, but a helpful overview of how to equally divide elastic and fabric, as well as how to stretch the elastic while you sew.

For the legs we are going off road! Buckle up. We are not going to divide the elastic evenly. Whoa. The suit needs most of the stretch from the crotch to the back side seam to keep your bum snug.

Pin the elastic to the lining side of the fabric without stretching anything from the crotch to the front and side panel.

The remaining elastic and fabric is for your bum coverage. With the leftover elastic and fabric mark 1/2, 1/4 and (if you can) 1/8th points. Match up the points and pin together.

Sew an elongated zig zag stitch, centering the presser foot on the elastic. Stretch the elastic as you sew where the fabric is loose so the fabric is evenly included in the seam. You will need to pull behind the presser foot on the garment as you pull the elastic from the front.

Repeat for second leg.

For the final top stitching on the waistband and legs I prefer to use a wider twin needle (mine is just under 1/4″ wide) with a slightly elongated straight stitch. The zig zag stitch will also work great. Roll the elastic over (you may pin if desired, I like to guide it by hand) and sew the top stitching with a 1/4″ seam allowance. Pull the fabric as needed to lay flat while you sew.

Next take your suit and …wait. You are done! Virtual high five. I knew you could do it.

If you would like to share your progress or final make on Instagram: #midlineswimsuit #ginghamhivepatterns @ginghamhive

Midline Sewalong:

1. Intro + Swim Top Support – Shelf Bra
2. Swim Top Support – Sports Bra
3. Swim Top
4. Swim Bottoms (you are here!)

Straight away we are going to be making a fabric stack–a fabric sandwich if you will. The order is very important! Pin the shoulder seams and side seams in this order:

1. Swim Top back (right side up)
2. Swim Top front (wrong side up)
3. Swim Top lining front (right side up)
4. Swim Top lining back (wrong side up)

Sew a straight stitch at 1/2″ seam allowance on the shoulder seams.

Sew a standard zig zag stitch at 1/2″ seam allowance for the side seams.

Flip the suit right side out. All the seams are facing back and enclosed, my kind of magic!

I recommend trying on the swim top with your support option (if using) to assess fit. Does anything feel too loose or too tight? Now is the best time to make adjustments.

Trim seam allowance down 1/4″ to reduce bulk.

If making the swim top with shelf bra, slide that inside just how you will would wear it if you put on both layers. I prefer to flip the shelf bra shoulder seam forward to reduce the bulk. For those using the sports bra or no added support the edge finishing steps will be the same process going forward.

Match and pin the layers of fabric at the armscyes and neckband together.

Use an elongated zig zag stitch or serge as close to the edge as you can to secure the layers together.

Time to pull out the narrow elastic to finish the unfinished edges. Elastic chart is on page 5. I recommend pinning the length needed and trying it on the area to be sure it’s not too tight. Once you like the length go ahead and cut to length.

I prefer to wait to finish or adjust the hem until the swim bottoms are done and I can try them on together. If you are happy with your hem as is you may finish it at the same time as the arm band and neckline.

Overlap each elastic piece 1/2″ and stitch to create loops. Mark the 1/2, 1/4 and 1/8 points around each loop and on the corresponding areas on the swim top. Match the pins to the swim top to evenly distribute the elastic to the fabric.

Important! Red alert! The elastic should never be longer than the fabric for this step. If you finish with too long elastic your edges will be wavy and look ill fitting. I have done this when I was not paying attention to guided elastic lengths and assumed that it would even out when I finished the edge (it didn’t). It is very [very very] annoying to unpick once topstitched.

If you have never sewn swimwear I find it helpful to watch a few YouTube videos to visualize how to stretch while you sew on elastic. This video is a few years old, but a helpful overview of how to equally divide elastic and fabric, as well as how to stretch the elastic while you sew.

Sew the elastic to the swim top with an elongated zig zag stitch, pulling from behind and in front while you sew to keep the elastic even with the fabric. The elastic should be stretched just far enough to smooth the fabric.

I highly recommend pausing and trying on the garment with at least the neckline and one armscye basted. Keep in mind the elastic will be folded over during the final step. How does it feel? It’s much easier to unpick here if adjustments need to be made.

For the final topstitching I like to use a wider twin needle (mine is just under 1/4″ wide) with a slightly elongated straight stitch. A zig zag stitch will also work great. Roll the elastic over (you may pin if desired, but I like to hold it by hand) and sew the top stitching with a 1/4″ seam allowance. Pull the fabric as needed to lay flat while you sew.

If you made a sports bra and would like it permanently fixed to the suit slide the sports bra, right side out, into the swim top. Line up the shoulder seams, centering the sports bra straps in the swim top straps. Pin in place. With the swim top facing up, stitch in the ditch (aka stitch on the seam line) on the shoulder seam with a straight stitch.

Optional – you may also line up the side seams and tack the sports bra in place. The sports bra side seam should be placed just below the swim top elastic. Pin in place and stitch in the ditch for about 1/2″ with a straight stitch to secure.

If you have waited to hem the swim top: repeat the same sets as the neckline and armscyes to finish the hem (I elected not to for my sample).

Congratulations – you have half a swimming suit!

If you would like to share your progress or final make on Instagram: #midlineswimsuit #ginghamhivepatterns @ginghamhive

Midline Sewalong:

1. Intro + Swim Top Support – Shelf Bra
2. Swim Top Support – Sports Bra
3. Swim Top (you are here!)
4. Swim Bottoms

There is some enclosed magic going on to help give balanced support. I find it very comfortable to wear jogging! These extra steps are optional, of course, so you may opt to not use them.

When making a sports bra for exercise you don’t need swim approved fabrics. However, I recommend at least one layer is a more stable athletic/yoga pant type knit. Full disclosure the sports bra with support options makes an ugly flat lay–the magic happens when you are wearing it.

Transfer any adjustments from the swim top to the sports bra. If you will be wearing the sports bra on it’s own you may prefer to grade in slightly to make it more form fitting-see page 7 for the simple adjustment. For the sample I graded the sports bra for a snug fit.

Time to sew! First, line up the narrow elastic to the support strap and mark the length with a pin. At this point I recommend holding the elastic length up to your body–just in front of your arm on the bust line is great. The elastic should be able to comfortably stretch from the bust line to where your shoulder seam would be. Take into account that it will not stretch quite as much when you sew it to the support strap piece once the stitching is added. If it is too tight or only just right add additional length. Cut two of the desired length.

Pin the elastic to the fabric strap, equally dividing the elastic if needed. In this one instance it’s fine if the elastic is longer than the fabric. Use an elongated zig zag stitch to attach it to the edge of your support straps, centering the presser foot on the elastic. Only stretch if needed to flatten the elastic and fabric while you sew.

If you would like to use foam cups now is the best time to sew them in. As this is a lined piece you do have the option to cut a small slit on the lining when finished to be able to slip a foam cup inside without having to sew it in (I prefer this actually). I do not love the rigid foam bra cup options that you typically see at a fabric store. I recommend foam cups you might find in a sports bra. If you don’t have extra lying around they are available to purchase online–search “bra cup inserts” for many options.

The pattern includes a bust point as a starting reference, but it is always great to hold the piece up to yourself and make needed adjustments. There are some great videos demonstrating different tips on how to sew on the cups – the swimmer queen Katie Makes A Dress has a really helpful video on sewing swim cups to your lining.

Next we will add a little shaping. I find it’s more comfortable to have a little separation when wearing a tight fitting sports garment, but you may omit this step if you wish. On the wrong side of the front lining mark a line down the center front. Mark 3″ from the neckline and 1″ from the bottom.

Take a length of narrow elastic – 6″ or longer and place at the top mark. Using a standard zig zag stitch make two stitches and backstitch. Stop with your needle down. Hold/pull behind the fabric and pull the elastic as tight as you can while you stitch. Stop at the bottom mark and backstitch again. Trim elastic.

Pin the support straps to the wrong side of the lining front 1″ away from the edge. Baste the straps to the lining front sewing near the edge with an elongated zig zag stitch.

Pull the support strap up to the lining shoulder, centering the elastic in the strap. Baste in place near the edge. From here on out things will look squashy and odd. When worn things will stretch and do their thing.

Pin the sports bra front and back piece, right sides together, at the side seams. Sew at 1/2″ with a standard zig zag stitch. Do not attach the shoulder seams yet.

Repeat with the sports bra lining front and back pieces.

Shelf bra band – first consult the elastic length recommendation for the 1.5″ under bust elastic on page 5. Pin this length around your under bust area and decide if you need to make any adjustments. You will overlap the elastic by 1/2″, so keep that in mind. Once you have a snug but comfortable length go ahead and cut the elastic.

Now you can either use the raw band or cover it. I prefer to cover it because it looks extra, and it’s a fun place for a pop of color. If you wish to cover the under bust band you will need a strip of the main swim fabric that is 2x as wide as your elastic (3″ if using 1.5″ elastic) and as long as the under bust elastic.

Overlap the elastic by 1/2″ and stitch in place (any stitch your heart desires) to form your loop. For the band match right sides together and sew with a straight stitch a 1″ seam allowance.

Wrap the band around the elastic loop with right sides facing out. Pin like crazy keeping the band as even around the top of the elastic. I know you want to ignore this advice, but the mass of pins will save you some grief.

Using an elongated zig zag stitch, stitch around the very edge of the band to secure layers together. Double check that you caught the fabric on both sides – quickly zig zag any offending areas that escaped the first pass around.

Take the sports bra lining hemline and mark the 1/2, 1/4, and 1/8th points with pins. Do the same for the under bust band.

If you are unsure how to do this I have a Midline Swimsuit Instagram highlight reel that includes a classy l video demonstration on dividing an area to evenly space elastic and fabric.

Match up the pins in both pieces and pin in place. I prefer to add additional pins in between to make it easier to sew. Use an elongated zig zag stitch at 1/4″ seam allowance. It helps to hold the fabric behind the machine while you pull from the front, stretching the elastic to be flat with the sports bra fabric as you sew.

Flip the piece inside out and attach the sports bra main fabric to the under bust band in the same fashion as above. Try as best you can to stay on the same seam you sewed while attaching the lining.

Now we are going to attach the 1″ strap elastic that will cross cross in back to balance support. See the elastic length on page 5 and cut the length in half to make two straps (for instance if the chart says 28″, cut in half to make two 14″ pieces). In my sample you will see stitching on my elastic – I cut a wide piece of elastic I had on hand. I am always a fan of using what you have.

Pin in place on the narrow seam allowance and sew in place securely. Keep your stitches to the seam allowance only. I prefer to go back and forth a few times to make sure.

To enclose the seams we will now layer the fabric and pin the shoulders. The order is very important!

1. Sports Bra back (right side up)
2. Sports Bra front (wrong side up)
3. Sports Bra lining front (right side up)
4. Sports Bra lining back (wrong side up) –due to necessity this piece will be wrapped around the under bust band to complete the stack

Here is another closeup of the order. To double check you should have main right sides together and lining right sides together in the stack.

Use a straight stitch at 1/2″ seam allowance to secure the shoulder seams.

While the raw shoulder seams are still exposed pin the strap elastic top the seam allowance as shown, taking care not to twist the elastic. In the instruction booklet on page 16 the straps are greatly exaggerated to better show this step.

Double check that the elastic is not twisted and will lie flat. Stitch the strap elastic securely on the seam allowance only.

Flip the sports bra right side out. Your supportive pieces and seams should all be enclosed, how satisfying!

The bust shaping elastic is only secured on the lining side currently. It is optional, but I like to have the top layer secured as well. Smooth out and pin the layers above and below the elastic. There will be excess main fabric.

You will now need to do a little sewing by feel. I know–it’s weird. Arrange the piece on your machine and do a standard zig zag stitch or two before backstitching and stop with the needle down. Grab the fabric behind the presser foot and stretch the fabric in front until the top layer and lining layer are flat. You will need to keep pulling from both ends while you sew. I like to extend a finger over the elastic line so I can continue to feel where the elastic line is between layers. Stitch until you feel the elastic has come to and end and backstitch.

Trim 3/8″ off the seam allowance for the armscyes and neckline to help reduce bulk of the elastic when worn with your swim top.

Pin and baste both layers of fabric on the neckline and armscye with an elongated zig zag or a serger. Try your best to not catch the internal support pieces, it may be helpful to pin it away from where you are sewing. It is ok if you do find you’ve sewn into it towards the shoulder seam, there’s only so much room of play on the straps.

Time to pull out the narrow elastic to finish the sports bra, elastic chart is on page 5. As always, I recommend pinning the length needed and trying it on the area to be sure it’s not too tight. Once you like the length go ahead and cut to length. Overlap each elastic piece 1/2″ and stitch to create three loops. Mark the 1/2, 1/4 and 1/8 points around each loop and on the corresponding areas on the sports bra. Match the pins to the sports bra to evenly distribute the elastic to the fabric.

Important! Red alert! The elastic should never be longer than the fabric for this step. If you needed to increase the elastic needed it can be the same size or smaller than the fabric it is being matched with. If you finish with too long elastic your edges will be wavy and look ill fitting. I have done this when I was rushing and rationalized that it would even out when I finished the edge (it didn’t). It is very annoying to unpick once finished.

If you have never sewn swimwear I find it helpful to watch a few YouTube videos to visualize how to stretch while you sew. This video is a few years old, but a helpful overview of how to equally divide elastic and fabric, as well as how to stretch the elastic while you sew.

Sew the elastic to the sports bra with an elongated zig zag stitch, pulling from behind and in front while you sew to keep the elastic even with the fabric. The elastic should be stretched just far enough to smooth the fabric.

I highly recommend pausing and trying on the garment with at least one armscye basted. Keep in mind the elastic will be folded over during the final step. How does it feel? It’s much easier to unpick here if adjustments need to be made.

For the final finishing I prefer to use a wider twin needle (mine is just under 1/4″ wide) with a slightly elongated straight stitch. The zig zag stitch will also work great. Roll the elastic over (you may pin if desired, I like to guide it by hand) and sew the top stitching with a 1/4″ seam allowance. Pull the fabric as needed to lay flat while you sew.

Your sports bra is done! Snoopy dance! This was the hardest part. If you are making a swim top set this aside until called for in the instructions. The swim top will be available in part 3 (coming soon).

If you would like to share your progress or final make on Instagram: #midlineswimsuit #ginghamhivepatterns @ginghamhive

Midline Sewalong:

1. Intro + Swim Top Support – Shelf Bra
2. Swim Top Support – Sports Bra (you are here!)
3. Swim Top
4. Swim Bottoms

Some might call the following sewalong series commentary “painfully lengthy”. I like to think I am being thorough and overly detailed. If you are going to skip ahead at the very least please read page 7 and 8 in the instructions to review sizing + grading before cutting your fabric.

For your convenience the pattern is available in a print at home format with layers (which allows you to choose only the relevant sizes, if desired) as well as a copy shop file to print out or use with a projector.

Sizing + Fit: The swimsuit was designed to meet at your midpoint/waist–but you can have it cropped or longer if desired. The swim top as drafted is snug around your bust (6″ of negative ease) and has zero ease at your waist. The swim bottoms have negative ease at the waist and thighs so they are snug and won’t shift in the water.

If you’d like to have the swim top snug at your waist to keep it from floating in the water, or have your swim sports bra more fitted, it is a very simple grading adjustment. “Grading” may sound intimidating to newer sewists–don’t fret! You’ll have bragging rights, “Oh this swimming suit? Nbd, I just graded between sizes to get a custom fit.”

Guidance on how to easily grade the swim top is found on page 7 of the instruction booklet. For the swim bottoms I encourage you to look at your waist and thigh measurements on the size chart and grade between sizes. Page 8 of the instructions will show you exactly where to make the simple adjustments when grading between sizes.

Throughout the instructions you will see different stitches referenced (standard zig zag, elongated zig zag, etc). On page 4 of the instruction booklet you will see what width and length I use on my machine. All machines are different–your machine may not even have numbers! You have my permission to ballpark your stitch calibrations. Backstitching is expected, but not explicitly stated.

Once you’ve settled on your finalized swim top pattern and support option (if desired) it is time to cut out your fabric! Please note I did not strictly use swim fabric for this sew along sample for visual purposes. It is *really* important you use fabric made for swimwear so you don’t have a saggy swimming suit at the pool.

I recommend waiting to cut any elastic until you reach the step in the pattern. That way you can pin the length needed and try it on that area of your body to make adjustments as needed. It’s much easier to add length here than to unpick layers of double needle stitching on swimwear (ask me how I know).

TIP: Some swim fabric, particularly solid colors, are really hard to tell right from wrong. Right after cutting out I like to chalk some lines on the side seams on the wrong side so I can keep the right/wrong sides consistent while I sew.

OK! Enough one-sided chit chat. Let’s get sewing.

Shelf Bra

If you plan to use foam cups now is the best time to sew them to the shelf bra front. I do not love the rigid swim bra cup options that you typically see at a fabric store. I prefer foam cups you might find in a sports bra. If you don’t have extra lying around they are available to purchase online–search “bra cup inserts” for many options.

The pattern includes a bust point as a starting reference, but it is always great to hold the piece up to yourself and make needed adjustments. I have not photographed the steps for this sample. There are some great videos demonstrating different tips on how to sew on the cups – the swimmer queen Katie Makes A Dress has a really helpful video on sewing swim cups to your lining.

As written the right side of the lining and optional cups will be against your skin – but this can be reversed if that is your preference.

The next step is to add some additional shaping for your shelf bra. I like including the shaping to help avoid the dreaded uni-boob you hear about when sewists tell scary stories around the campfire. Mark a line down the center front, and then additional markings 3″ down from the center front neckline and 1″ from the center front bottom.

Place your narrow (1/4″ or 3/8″) elastic on the top of the line you just marked and with a standard zig zag stitch make two stitches, back stitch and stop with your needle down. Hold the fabric firmly from behind and pull the elastic as tight as you can. Pull from behind while you proceed stitching and stop 1″ from the bottom and back stitch. Trim the elastic.

Next place the front and back shelf bra pieces together matching up the side seams, wrong sides together. I like enclosed seams as much as possible! Sew a standard zig zag stitch with a narrow 1/4″ seam allowance.

Trim about an 1/8″ off the finished side seam allowances. Flip inside out and finger press the side seams and pin side seams together again, this time with right sides together. Also, now pin the shoulder seams right sides together. Sew a standard zig zag stitch at 1/2″ seam allowance. Trim shoulder seam allowance 1/4″ to reduce bulk later in the construction.

Now we will work on the shelf bra band. Consult the elastic length recommendation for the 1.5″ under bust elastic on page 5. Pin this length around your under bust area and decide if you need to make any adjustments. You will overlap the elastic by 1/2″, so keep that in mind. Once you have a snug but comfortable length go ahead and cut the elastic.

Now you can either use the raw band or cover it. If you wish to cover the under bust band you will need a strip of swim fabric (lining or main fabric) that is 2x as wide as your elastic (3″ if using 1.5″ elastic) and as long as the under bust elastic.

Overlap the elastic by 1/2″ and stitch in place (any stitch your heart desires) to form your loop. For the band match right sides together and sew with a straight stitch a 1″ seam allowance.

Wrap the band around the elastic loop with right sides facing out. Pin like crazy keeping the band as even around the top of the elastic. The high volume of pins will save you annoyance while sewing.

Sew an elongated zig zag stitch around the edge of the band to secure layers together. Double check that you caught the fabric on both sides – quickly zig zag any offending areas that escaped the first pass around.

Take the shelf bra hemline and mark the 1/2, 1/4, and 1/8th points with pins. Do the same for the under bust band.

If you are unsure how to do this I have a Midline Swimsuit Instagram highlight reel that includes a classy video demonstration on dividing an area to evenly space elastic and fabric.

Match up the pins in both pieces and pin together. I prefer to add additional pins in between to make it easier to manage while I sew. Use an elongated zig zag stitch at 1/4″ seam allowance. It helps to hold the fabric behind the machine while you pull from the front, stretching the elastic to be flat with the shelf bra fabric as you sew.

Your shelf bra is done. This was the hardest part. Yay for getting that out of the way! Now you are ready to construct the swim top. Instructions to follow in part 3 of the Midline Swimsuit sewing pattern sewalong (not yet available).

If you would like to share your progress or final make on Instagram: #midlineswimsuit #ginghamhivepatterns @ginghamhive

Midline Sewalong:

1. Intro + Swim Top Support – Shelf Bra (you are here!)
2. Swim Top Support – Sports Bra
3. Swim Top
4. Swim Bottoms

The Midline Swimsuit pattern is great for unique fabric designs and color combinations, but also looks very cool in a single fabric. I love that you could create a few tops + bottoms and mix and match as you like when you head to the water. My favorite part of a new indie pattern is seeing the lovely tester versions! You get to immediately see so many different personalities and ideas for a pattern. I am so happy that a number of testers wished to share their sample with everyone.

In no particular order (because they are all fabulous!) here is a roundup of the Midline Swimsuit testers:

I think the Lulu works really well for refashioning as it does not require a lot of fabric and the pieces are smaller as they are fitted. Also the lines are so fun, color blocking would be so fun! This time I found a men’s cotton sweater with some fun texture. Men’s sweaters are often longer and are nice if you need extra length for your pattern pieces.

When I was trying on my tester cardigan I thought, this would be so fun as a sweater/pullover. This is such an easy hack! Just cut one bodice piece on the fold instead of two separate pieces. For my refashion, I cut an extra piece for the front and back so I could more easily lay out the pattern pieces to optimize available fabric. I lined up the front pattern pieces on the view A line, and then lined up the back pieces on the fold line. I wanted to preserve the cuffs and hem band, so I arranged my pattern pieces accordingly (remember, original View A has cuffs and a hem band). I also added a little extra length, but probably didn’t need to in hindsight! I was using a bulkier knit so I left more seam allowance than called for in the pattern.

After pinning in place I cut out the fabric and followed the directions for the Lulu cardigan, minus areas focused on the zipper. It came together so fast. As it was a thicker knit, I increased my stitch length (between a basting stitch and regular stitch), sewed with a 1/2″ seam allowance and for the bodice/shoulder pieces I used a straight stitch and then did a 1/4″ top stitch to secure the seam allowance and hopefully reduce the risk of unraveling. I used a longer and wider than normal zig zag for the collar and where the sleeves attach to the bodice as those will need to stretch. For the particular sweater I used to refashion I had some extra collar ribbing to work with so I tried to work in a collar that mimicked the bomber jacket look of the original Lulu cardigan.

I loved playing with texture on this version! If I squeeze in another soon I hope to do some fun color blocking.

As far as I could tell by my research (aka zooming in on progress pictures from Little Pincushion Studio‘s beautiful Instagram feed) they are raw applique quilts. I wanted to find another method for constructing my top so the raw edges would be sandwiched inside and more durable during washing. I initially hoped to do some curve paper piecing for this project but in my tests I could only get some of the corners to match accurately, and this project is all about those intersections! So I decided to do standard applique. Here is a light tutorial detailing how I created my top. **Official Warning** this top took a lot of time to create. Like a super silly amount. This is a “little did she know…” scenario. Proceed with caution!

I started by practicing some doodles on scratch paper. It actually helped to hold the top of the pencil to let the lines be more organic so I wouldn’t over think where I was going. Visually I wanted most of the excitement on the bottom half of the shirt, as well I tried to keep the doodles on a larger scale.

Once I had some ideas in mind I pulled out a simple boxy top pattern (I traced an old rtw top here) and again used pencil to doodle. I traced the final doodle with a marker and numbered each piece. The background is one solid piece. I have a second tracing for the back (not pictured) where a few of the shapes continued to the back.

Next, I used tracing paper to trace each numbered pattern piece separately and then I used a clear quilting ruler to trace a quarter inch onto each pattern piece. Number as you go to help keep things organized. We are finally ready to cut out fabric! It was so hard deciding which colors to use where! I had bought a stack of small cuts of quilting cottons, but I wish I had gotten a few more. For the background color, I cut two full pattern pieces for both the front and back. I wanted the piece to have some texture (like a double cloth) when I quilted it.

I didn’t want any one color touching itself. I laid out the pieces as I went to watch out for this as well as to get excited to push forward. It was either going to be a hot mess or super fun.

I decided to baste stitch slightly less than a quarter inch around each piece to make ironing all those curves so much easier.

To aid ironing pretty curves clip on the rounded edges, and then press the pieces using the stitch lines as your guide. Keep your pattern pieces nearby as you iron. You will want to make sure you are pressing under on the correct side or you’ll have a backwards pattern piece. Below is an example, notice the stitches should not be visible from the right side.

Is anyone still here? If you finished your stack of ironed pattern pieces, congratulations! You are neat. I then took two pieces at a time right side together, pinned the corners and then pinned as I manipulated the curves. I hand basted the pieces together. You will have puckers here and there, but as long as the corners look tidy the quilting later will tidy things up.

Once you’ve got all the pieces joined give it another good press. Fabric shifts and your pieces may not line up 100%, but that’s okay. As long as the discrepancies can be sewn into a seam or under a hem it will be fine.

As I chose to do a lining, I sewed the should seams separately for each. I then joined the front bodice and lining by sewing right sides together around the neckline. Once I flipped the lining inside it was time to start pinning–just as you would when quilting. The quilting will take some time. By some, I mean a ton. It’s time intensive, but I think the quilting adds so much texture and dimension to this project! Total game changer. I started in the middle and worked my way out, always sewing in the same direction to keep fabric from puckering or shifting. I did 1/4″ matchstick style quilting, and I think if I were to do it again I’d do them a little farther apart.

Once I got through quilting the front and back I did french side seams, rolled the cuffs on the sleeves, and hand stitched the bottom hem.

I’m glad to have the push from #sewhappycolor to put an idea to fabric and see it through! I’ve already got more ideas for some fun color-blocking + doodles, but first I have some queued projects to finish!